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Taking Plants Indoors for Winter

Taking Plants Indoors for Winter. The leaves are falling. Plants are taking notice: the temperatures are dropping, too.

moving plants indoors for fall, fall gardening tips, tips for moving plants That means you too had better be thinking about moving your delicate bloomers indoors.

A lot of people send their houseplants on a little summer vacation to the back yard where they can commune with nature and soak up some local bugs.

But you need to bring them back indoors before the temperature drops below 40 degrees Fahrenheit at night. (Even sooner for tropicals.)

Otherwise, this may be your begonia's last summer camp. You can't just pick up the pot, however, and lug it back inside. (Well, you can, but that's not really smart.)

If you have time, gradually acclimate it to the dimmer light conditions inside. Put it in a shady spot for a day or so, then move it under an eave, then to the porch.

Of course, if you're expecting frost tonight, forget acclimation and just go for it.

Let's say your beloved bloomer is acclimated: What next?

Chances are your geranium picked up a few buggy neighbors over the summer that you don't want to turn loose in your house.

To de-bug it, cover the soil with a plastic garbage bag. Then wash the leaves with soapy water and rinse. This will kill most pests.

Some, however, such as spider mites and scale, will need a light spraying of fine oil - a nontoxic way of killing the pests by suffocation.

Now that it's squeaky clean, it's time to concentrate on the soil. I like to repot I move mine back inside. Not only does this remove any burrowing insects but it also gives it a nice, fresh soil to winter in.

To do this, water lightly then remove it from its pot. Is it root bound? (If the roots are going round and round, the answer is yes.)

If so, you've got two choices: You can repot it in a larger pot (don't go up more than two inches in diameter, though.) Or, you can trim it back.

Let's say you choose Option No. 1.

Loosen the root ball with your fingers so that the roots are generally pointing down. If they're wound too tight, you may have to pry them apart with a dull knife.

Put enough soil at the bottom of the container so that the crown (the part where it grows out of the ground) will be covered to the same depth as before. Now, slowly add more potting mix, gently tapping it down as you go. Water.

Your plant may sink a bit in the soil. If so, pull the crown back up to the desired depth and add more soil around and under it and water again to remove air pockets.

If you don't want to move up to a larger pot (Option No. 2), the drill is much the same. Water, then remove it from the container.

With a sharp, sterile knife, trim the roots back by one quarter to one third. (If possible, then trim back the foliage accordingly. It will be hard to feed that much foliage with fewer roots.)

Now wash the container and fill the bottom with enough soil so it will be potted at the same depth as before. Proceed as stated above, slowly adding soil and gently patting it down. Water and adjust the soil level if necessary.

Now find a new home for your post-vacationer near the brightest window.

As the plant becomes accustomed to the dimmer light, you can move it to darker areas. Don't be surprised if the plant yellows a bit and drops a few leaves at first. But if it continues dropping leaves, try to find a sunnier spot.

Remember that the plants won't need watering as frequently indoors. Poke your finger down into the soil and only water when dry.

Cut back on fertilizer, too. I fertilize mine only every other month with a very diluted solution. Some people don't fertilize during the winter at all.

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