Your cozy sweaters have been worn a few times and need a date with the washing machine. But you hold back, not wanting to lose that new look and feel.
Relax! They can survive the laundering process - and even come out looking good. You just have to know how to safely wash your specific sweater fiber(s).
1. Begin by Reading the Label.
Follow the instructions carefully. If it says "Dry Clean Only", dry clean it. However, if it says "Dry Clean", you may be able to wash it.
Yes, they are a little harder to care for than most garments. They can
shrink;
stretch; they can even (heaven forbid but they do) pill.
And the softer the fabric, the more delicate it is to care for and prevent these unwanted changes in its appearance.
Fight back against the sweater aging process with these laundering guidelines.
2 Care by Fiber.
Acrylic: Acrylics are manmade fibers that can stretch when subjected to heat. Wash as directed on the label - usually in warm water. Then either lay flat to dry or tumble dry on low if the label says that's OK.
Angora: Angora is a blend of rabbit hair and synthetic fibers. It's very prone to
shrinking
so this is one you should consider dry cleaning.
If the label says it can be washed, don't put it in the machine. Instead, hand-wash and lay flat to dry.
Cashmere: Cashmere is usually goat hair blended with wool or synthetic fibers. Follow the label instructions.
Usually, you can wash cashmere on the delicate cycle in cold water. Roll in a towel to squeeze out excess water, reshape, and lay flat to dry away from sunlight or direct heat.
Chenille: If you want chenille to stay soft, don't put it in the washing machine - even if the label says it's OK.
The rubbing caused by the machine agitation can damage the fibers and make them snag or feel rough.
Instead, wash inside out by hand and lay flat to dry.
Cotton: Usually, you can hand or machine wash cotton in cool water. Lay flat to dry.
Silk: Some silk can be washed in the delicate cycle in cold water and flat dried. They may need ironing afterward, however.
Wool: Some wool can be washed; others cannot. Check the label.
If you do put it in the washing machine, use the gentlest cycle and wash in cool water. Don't twist. Lay flat to dry.
Also, know that all wools are not alike. Shetland and Merino wools often can be washed in cold water on the most delicate cycle. Agitation can cause them to
shrink.
3 Sweater-Specific Laundering Tips.
Washing: Always turn sweaters inside out to reduce pilling. (Those little fuzzy balls or bits of fluff that show up on the surface of your sweater are the result of machine washing, which causes abrasion of the delicate fibers.
The result, known as "pilling", is simply broken fibers that ball up on the surface as a result of abrasive wash cycles.)
To prevent this, wash in extra-large mesh bags. If hand-washing, remove excess water by rolling in a towel to remove excess water. Don't wring - you'll do the same thing the damaging washing machine does.
Machine drying: If you do put your sweater in the dryer, dry on low heat and remove it when it's almost - but not fully - dry; finish drying by placing it flat on a clothing rack or over a chair.
Flat drying: Place the sweater on a rack and reshape it as much as possible. Do not dry near heat or in direct sunlight. Check it occasionally to make sure it's not shrinking as it dries.
If it does, pull it back to its original size. (Mark the outline on your rack with tape.)
Pills: You can buy one of those battery-powered pill removers but that's an exercise in frustration. The best way is to gently shave the surface with a plastic safety razor. But very, very gently.
Storage: Never put away a sweater dirty as this makes it more attractive to pests. Also, some stains may set. Fold to store; do not hang.
To make your sweaters last longer, air them out at least 24 hours after you wear them (and before you wear them again). Then fold and store out of direct light.
