A living Christmas tree is a lovely idea. It's a real tree, roots and all, that spends the holidays in your living room and then goes out to the yard to live for the next 30 years. Every December, you get to look out the window and say, "That was Christmas 2026."
Here's the catch. A living tree isn't a Christmas decoration. It's a landscape plant on a short holiday visit. It has needs, and the biggest one is getting back outside before your warm living room convinces it that spring has arrived in the middle of December.
Plan ahead and it works beautifully. Here's how, from the nursery to the planting hole.
A living Christmas tree is a great fit if:
If you want a 9-foot tree up from Thanksgiving to New Year's, a fresh-cut tree or an artificial one is the better choice. No guilt. That's what they're for.
No yard? Some cities have living-tree rental programs: a nursery delivers a potted tree in December, picks it up in January, and plants it somewhere it's needed or keeps it for next year. Search "living Christmas tree rental" plus your city.
This is backward from how most people shop, and it's the key to the whole thing. Before you buy, walk the yard and pick the spot where the tree will live for decades. Check:
The tree you plant has to handle your summers, not just December. A Fraser fir that loves the North Carolina mountains will sulk in a hot Texas yard. Some good regional choices:
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Where you live Cold winters (Northeast, Midwest, Mountain West) Pacific Northwest Mild West Coast (California) Southeast and South Frost-free (Hawaii, South Florida) |
Good living Christmas Trees Colorado blue spruce, Norway spruce, white spruce, Eastern white pine, Douglas fir Douglas fir, noble fir, grand fir Deodar cedar, Aleppo pine, Italian stone pine, Monterey cypress (check the mature size: some get huge) Eastern red cedar, Virginia pine, Arizona cypress, Leyland cypress Norfolk Island pine. Here's how to care for one. |
Your local nursery or Cooperative Extension office knows exactly what thrives in your zip code. Ask them. Your zip code has more influence over planting than Santa.
You'll see two kinds:
Before you buy, check the tree: deep green color, flexible needles, no brown patches, no bugs, a firm root ball that doesn't crumble, and a trunk that doesn't wobble in the pot. Skip any tree whose roots are circling around the outside of the pot or growing out the drainage holes.
Plan the move before you go. Who's lifting? What door is it going through? Do you have a hand truck or dolly? A living tree is not a one-person job. Do not discover that the tree requires four adults when you're halfway up the front steps.
Going from a cold nursery to a 70°F living room in one step is a shock. Give it a few days in between:
1. Two to three days in an unheated garage, porch or shed. Cool, sheltered, out of the wind.
2. Then bring it inside.
3. When it's time to go back out, do the same thing in reverse: a few days in the garage before it goes out in the cold.
This is the rule that matters most. Evergreens are dormant in winter. Keep one in a warm house too long and it starts waking up and growing. Then you put it outside, the new growth freezes, and the tree is seriously stressed or dies.
Seven to 10 days indoors, total. Bring it in a few days before Christmas and take it out a few days after. Try not to make the tree believe spring has arrived in the middle of December.
The root ball needs to stay moist, never dry and never soggy.
Pets: keep them out of the saucer water and the soil. Finally, a bathroom with a tree, as far as the dog is concerned. A bit of chicken wire or a tree skirt over the pot keeps diggers out.
In cold climates, dig the planting hole in November, while the ground is still soft. Store the soil you dug out in a wheelbarrow or in bags in the garage so it doesn't freeze, and fill the hole with straw or mulch, then cover it with a board. In January, the hole's ready and the soil's thawed.
In mild climates, you can dig the hole any time the soil isn't soggy.
1. Acclimate it first. A few days in the garage or on a sheltered porch.
2. Dig wide, not deep. Make the hole two to three times as wide as the root ball and exactly as deep. The spot where the trunk flares out at the base should sit at ground level or just above it. Planting too deep is the number one reason new trees die.
3. Unwrap the roots.
4. Backfill with the soil you dug out. No need to add fancy amendments. Firm it gently with your hands.
5. Water deeply to settle the soil.
6. Mulch. Spread 2 to 3 inches of mulch in a wide circle, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk. Trees did not request volcanoes.
Water deeply once a week through the first spring and summer whenever it doesn't rain, more often in hot, dry weather. Don't fertilize the first year. Stake it only if it's in a windy spot, and take the stakes off after a year.
If the ground is frozen solid, leave the tree in its pot in an unheated garage or a sheltered spot outside, with the pot buried in mulch or straw to keep the roots from freezing. Keep the soil moist. Plant it as soon as the ground thaws.
For a year or two, yes. Keep it outside year-round (it needs winter cold), water it often, and move it to a pot one size bigger every couple of years. Eventually, almost every evergreen outgrows a pot. Dwarf varieties, like a dwarf Alberta spruce, are the best choice if you want a tree that stays potted for years.
1. Choosing a tree that can't grow where you live
2. Keeping it indoors longer than 10 days
3. Putting it next to the fireplace or a heat vent
4. Letting the root ball dry out, or drowning it
5. No plan for after Christmas
How long can a living Christmas tree stay indoors?
7 to 10 days. Any longer and the warmth starts waking it up from winter dormancy, and the new growth gets killed when it goes back outside.
How do you water a living Christmas tree indoors?
Check the root ball daily and water when the top 2 inches are dry. A tray of ice cubes on the soil
How deep do you plant a living Christmas tree?
No deeper than the root ball. The flare at the base of the trunk should sit at ground level or slightly above. Make the hole two to three times wider than the root ball.
What's the best kind of living Christmas tree?
The one that grows well where you live. Colorado blue spruce and Norway spruce do well in cold climates, Douglas fir in the Pacific Northwest, Deodar cedar and Aleppo pine in California, and Eastern red cedar and Virginia pine in the South. Ask your local nursery.
Pick the planting spot first. Choose a tree that grows where you live. Keep it inside for 7 to 10 days, in the coolest room you have, with moist roots. Ease it in and out through the garage. Plant it wide and shallow, and water it through its first summer.
Do that and you'll have a Christmas tree in the yard for decades. Some Christmas memories are magical. Some involve a dolly. This one involves both.
The tree is planted and the memories are growing. Keep the rest of the season green and beautiful with these related guides:
• Christmas Tree Care Tips: Going with a fresh-cut tree instead? Here's how to keep it fresh and safe.
• Christmas Plant Care Tips: Poinsettias, Christmas cactus, amaryllis and Norfolk Island pine that thrive past the holidays.
• How to Keep Holiday Greenery Fresh: Wreaths, centerpieces and branches in a vase that make it to New Year's.
• How to Keep Christmas Garland Fresh: Mantel, stair rail, front door and porch garland that stays green.
• Elegant Christmas Decorating Ideas: Simple ways to make the holidays look expensive, without the price tag.
• Green Holiday Entertaining Tips: Eco-friendly hosting, from the centerpiece to the leftovers.
• 10 Fall Gardening Tips: Get the yard ready, including digging that planting hole before the ground freezes.
• Backyard and Garden Guide: Patios, plants and outdoor living for the whole family.